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Part of the fun of Garden Railways in my experience is the building of it! When I started out, there was a lack of information on 00 in the garden on the Internet, and in books. So I hope to cure that problem by adding a few articles that might help others in the construction stages of their 00 gauge garden railway. Most of my inspiration came from a friends garden railway, and from Model Rail Magazine when they did the articles on Trevor jones 00 gauge garden railway. The below examples have been drawn up using MS paint. None are of our own Ideas - I'm sure they have all be used before.
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What we did - The Concrete Trackbase
Shuttering Once you have set the route for your railway, Hammer in stakes all the way around at your Levels length. Then go around with your level and check your gradients, adjust them to your liking! Remember the tops of these stakes will represent your Trackbase Top!
Now lay an aggregate (hard-core) along the route, keeping it level!
  • Cut a length of hardboard to the height you want your trackbed to be.
  • Cut as many 2x1 stakes as you will need, and tack them onto the hardboard with 2 screws/nails. (may need more stakes for curves)

Levels Lenght

Shuttering "Making the mould" Hammer in the stakes, either side to the correct width that you want. Try to make sure that the aggregate fills the gap between the hardboard and the ground - remember the hard-core is there so that the concrete grips to it! (We used broken bricks & Pea shingle for hard-core) On flat ground surfaces its recommended that you build concrete pillars embedded into the ground at intervals - this way the trackbed is fixed rather than just laying!
At this stage, before you start pouring wet concrete into the mould, G-Clamp the tops of the hardboard at the wanted trackbase width, because once the concrete goes in, a fair bit of weight will start to push the shuttering out! If left like this, you will end up with a wavy edged trackbase.


*Just a quick note at this stage. Although we missed this out and might regret it in the future - reinforcement steel roding!. Its advisable to add this throughout the concrete base, this will stop the concrete from dropping, then cracking! We made sure that the hardcore below was packed down enough to stop this from happening (fingers crossed)
Adding the concrete Once you have poured the concrete into the mould, and leveled it off with a trowel & level, Check your gradient, make sure the stakes you hammered in at the start are level with the concrete, and not protruding. This may cause havoc when it comes to laying your track.
You will need to act quickly at this point, before the concrete sets, Have ready some "trackbase width" treated strip wood! These will allow your track pins to be nailed in, add more strips around areas that will be having points, junctions etc. etc.

making it all look pretty! ;) Once your concrete is set, and rock hard! remove the hardboard shuttering. You may have to give it a wobble then a tug. Check any areas that might have sunk, or edges that didn't quite get enough concrete, if so go around with some quick set Cement Repair from Polyfilla, and smarten it up!
Add embankment sides, or box hedges, to blend in with your garden! Lay your track, and have some fun.
Happy Garden Railwaying!


Other Trackbase methods
Trackbase Idea straight The raised method on metposts concreted into the ground. This example is for straight sections. Roofing felt can be added to the finished wooden structure, by either tacking it, or use of felt adhesive, which can be bought from all good DIY stores.
Trackbase Idea curved Same method, but this example explains how to build around curves. using mitred wood sections from the pillar.

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